Drink local: the Gilt Club highlights local produce at the bar.(SCENE)

Swathed in glitzy gold and rich red tones, the Gilt Club appears too swanky a place to embrace Portland, Ore.'s popular "eat local" credo. Upon entering, I cannot imagine that this image-driven downtown restaurant and lounge lavishly appointed with a shapely, intimate corner bar, artisan chandeliers and high-backed booths and banquettes in the dining room would promote something as down home, simple and virtuous as the farm-to-table philosophy.

But once the menus are delivered, I quickly find that at this haute locale the staff cleverly peppers glamorous dishes with locally sourced ingredients behind the scenes. Starters and salads feature leafy greens from nearby …